Wor Wonton a royal repast
by Bill Kaufmann
King’s still packs them in with its no-frills fare in big portions. The wor won ton soup at King’s Restaurant has become renowned and reminders of it are everywhere to be seen in the bustling, smokeless diner that also peddles its own line of preserves.
So we felt virtually obliged to try out a large helping of the wor won ton which also comes with crab sticks for an extra buck fifty. It’s a busy bowl of large, meaty pork dumplings, julienned barbecued pork, carrots, green onions and broccoli — and dense with noodles of spaghetti thickness. The helping was enough for Mizue, Craig, Nadia and I to sample and we all concluded it was a savoury, hearty meal in itself.
On Sundays, King’s features breakfast along with lunch items on a menu that devotes an entire page to western-style Chinese fare. I went with the $4.39 breakfast special that changes every day — this time the ham and cheese omelette. The omelette sported a thin egg envelope barely constraining an impressive motherlode of juicy julienned ham with a shock of molten cheese in the centre. It came with a hefty heap of mash-style hashbrowns of routine truck stop quality — and two slices of toast.
Galvanized by a taste of the orient with the soup, Mizue went with the barbecued pork chow mein with six crispy won tons. It proved a large pile of thin noodles, pork, bean sprouts, shredded carrots, celery and onions, fringed by a tossed salad. We dipped the crispy-brown Sputnik-shaped deep-fried won tons in a thin, sweet plum sauce. Mizue pronounced the chow mein a wholesome, tasty success, but was most impressed with the size of the dish, at least half of which was doggy- bagged.
Nadia confirmed this Sunday as the Day of the Pig with her order of pork chops and two eggs — another belly-busting plate of unpretentious goodness. I sampled the pork and found it to be juicy, tender and tastefully seasoned.
Nadia also loaded up on the hashbrowns and toast, as did Craig, who answered the call of simplicity with the scrambled eggs with green onions.
In a city where the diner has taken on more of a trendy cachet, King’s still packs them in with its no-frills fare in big portions and a darn good wor won ton soup
FOOD ........ 3 out of 5
AMBIENCE 3 out of 5
SERVICE .... 4 out of 5
Western and Chinese
Wor won ton soup
CREDIT: Visa & Debit only
WHEELCHAIRS: Restaurant — yes; washrooms — no